The relaxed, easy atmosphere of a party or social gathering should lend itself well to the photographer. Most participants will be enjoying themselves and will be in a good mood with a ready smile. To elevate the party snap to something more interesting take yourself out of the party for a while and be an objective observer. You will then be able to catch that unposed candid shot as well as the general festivity. Here are ten tips for getting better party pictures.
* To get everyone in the frame at the party you need to get above the action. Find a high vantage point. If you have a zoom function set it to wide to capture the revellers. A general view of everyone having a good time gives that sense of occasion.
* As an outsider looking in you are ideally positioned for candid shots. Often the unposed photograph catching someone off guard can be very interesting! Having said that, don’t deliberately try to cause embarrassment!
* Alternatively, engage with people. Get the crowd used to having you and your camera around. They will be more cooperative and willing to be photographed. There are always extraverts who are only too pleased to be photographed and will play up to the camera. However, there will be the more reserved types who regard the camera as intrusive. So respect their wishes.
* Once you have a group’s cooperation, they will start to relax more and enjoy the experience. You can now try varying your viewpoint and framing. Try some close-ups. If you have a zoom lens or function, us it.
* Always be on the lookout for an unusual shot. Sometimes a subject other than people can be interesting. A close-up of glasses of different shapes with various colored drinks, for example.
* Set the zoom to wide for general views, but don’t be afraid to zoom in close.
* For the more technically minded, set to continuous mode. This will help with moving subjects. People will be laughing and talking but a quick burst of pictures should capture at least one with the right expression.
* If the event takes place during day time and there is sufficient natural light, set the ISO to a high value and try photographing without the flash or with just a little fill in. Even if the room is lit with electric lighting there may well be sufficient ambient light to try a this. With a high ISO and perhaps a slower shutter speed you should be able to record the background detail of the room as well as your subject.
* If you do use flash, bounce it off the ceiling. This will reduce the harshness of the flash and any washed out foreground.
* Finally, your photographic equipment is valuable. Don’t leave it unattended and keep it away from spilt drinks. When not in use, keep it safely away in your camera case.
Thursday 10 December 2009
Tuesday 20 October 2009
Photography For Online Auctions
The advent of digital photography and the availability of digital cameras has made it possible for everyone to use photography as a business tool. If you have ever bought or sold anything on an online auction you will know the importance of good clear photographs. Clear and accurate pictures of items for sale are needed. Artistic merit, whilst making an item appear attractive, is in this case, not as important as a truthful picture. Here are ten tips for effective auction pictures.
* Avoid harsh unsightly shadows by using plenty of soft diffuse lighting instead of strong directional light or flash. If you have a light tent, this is ideal. Regular sellers of small to medium size items should seriously consider one of these. As well as softening the light it will also reduce reflection off shiny surfaces.
*Be particularly careful about the background you use. Many people seem to forget the background, thinking it is only the item itself which is looked at. A busy background can be distracting and unsightly. Choose something simple and of a pleasing color. A board or sheet should do. A contrasting background can make the item stand out.
*Expose for your main subject. The background is incidental so make sure you expose for the item you are photographing. Use spot or center weighted metering if necessary and bracket your exposures.
* Try to give some sort of scale to the item. If you are photographing a piece of jewellery for example, show it being worn or place a ruler or a coin next to it so the bidders can immediately see it’s size.
* Make sure the image is sharp. Ideally use a tripod to eliminate camera shake. The image must be well focused. Use manual focusing if auto-focus gets confused and lets you down.
* Take a number of shots from different angles to show the item from all sides, if appropriate, to illustrate all its features.
*Take close-ups of any wear or damage to give an honest appearance of the item. Anything misleading or any attempt to hide faults will only lead to a dissatisfied bidder.
*Take close-ups of any labels or maker’s trademarks to show authenticity.
*If the item is boxed or comes with any special packaging, then show it in a photograph.
*Some sellers put a border round the main picture to make it stand out against similar items shown with yours. This can be done quite easily with software such as Photoshop.
Although the item description will tell the prospective bidder all they need to know, a series of good pictures may well be persuasive. If you give as much information as you can in a set of high quality images then you are more likely to get the best possible price.
* Avoid harsh unsightly shadows by using plenty of soft diffuse lighting instead of strong directional light or flash. If you have a light tent, this is ideal. Regular sellers of small to medium size items should seriously consider one of these. As well as softening the light it will also reduce reflection off shiny surfaces.
*Be particularly careful about the background you use. Many people seem to forget the background, thinking it is only the item itself which is looked at. A busy background can be distracting and unsightly. Choose something simple and of a pleasing color. A board or sheet should do. A contrasting background can make the item stand out.
*Expose for your main subject. The background is incidental so make sure you expose for the item you are photographing. Use spot or center weighted metering if necessary and bracket your exposures.
* Try to give some sort of scale to the item. If you are photographing a piece of jewellery for example, show it being worn or place a ruler or a coin next to it so the bidders can immediately see it’s size.
* Make sure the image is sharp. Ideally use a tripod to eliminate camera shake. The image must be well focused. Use manual focusing if auto-focus gets confused and lets you down.
* Take a number of shots from different angles to show the item from all sides, if appropriate, to illustrate all its features.
*Take close-ups of any wear or damage to give an honest appearance of the item. Anything misleading or any attempt to hide faults will only lead to a dissatisfied bidder.
*Take close-ups of any labels or maker’s trademarks to show authenticity.
*If the item is boxed or comes with any special packaging, then show it in a photograph.
*Some sellers put a border round the main picture to make it stand out against similar items shown with yours. This can be done quite easily with software such as Photoshop.
Although the item description will tell the prospective bidder all they need to know, a series of good pictures may well be persuasive. If you give as much information as you can in a set of high quality images then you are more likely to get the best possible price.
Tuesday 25 August 2009
Shutter Speed And Movement
The effect of movement in a photograph is achieved by the amount of blur or sharpness in your image. This is controlled primarily by the shutter speed. A fast shutter speed or even flash will freeze the action giving a pin-sharp image, but this is not always the effect you want. There are a number of techniques which can be used to express movement in your photographs.
*The first of these, shutter speed, is more important than just getting the right exposure. The choice of shutter speed, from very slow giving long exposures, to very fast , can determine how movement is conveyed. To take control of the shutter speed you must be in shutter priority or manual mode.
*To get a sharp image of a moving object, use a fast shutter speed – 1/500 or even faster – to freeze the action. Alternatively, pan, that is following the subject with your camera, to blur the background and keep your main subject sharp. This takes practice, but gives great results.
*Try to anticipate how the action will unfold. Watching and learning from repeated events allows you to predict what is going to happen next, so you can be prepared. If you have an idea of what is going to happen and when it will happen you can be ready. Often movement will come to a halt and let you get your shot when your subject is at a stand still. A child on a swing for example.
*A sharp image is not always the best way of expressing movement in a photograph. A much more dramatic and evocative effect can be achieved by using a slower shutter speed and allowing a controlled amount of blur. When photographing moving water – a mountain stream or waterfall for example, using a slow shutter speed will give the effect of flowing water. If you were photographing a runner you might pan the camera and use a shutter speed fast enough to get the main subject sharp but slightly blur the background.
*Long exposures are very effective for night photography. An exposure of a few minutes can capture a firework display, lightening or even stars in the night sky. Street scenes come alive with buildings lit up and car lights streaking across the image. Remember you will need a tripod when using long exposures.
So try experimenting with different shutter speeds to see what effects they have, and practice panning to get a sense of movement in your photographs. Photographing moving subjects needs a fast shutter speed if you want to freeze the action, but a slower shutter speed if you want your main subject to flow. By panning the camera to keep the subject in the viewfinder a fast shutter speed should give a sharp image and blur the background. Anticipating when movement is at its slowest or when the subject comes to a stand still will help you get a sharp image even at a slower shutter speed. Movement can be captured by using a slower shutter speed giving an amount of blur. You should try to reach a compromise between sharpness in the main subject and a degree of blur in the background.
Away have your camera with you so you can be ready to take photographs at any time.
*The first of these, shutter speed, is more important than just getting the right exposure. The choice of shutter speed, from very slow giving long exposures, to very fast , can determine how movement is conveyed. To take control of the shutter speed you must be in shutter priority or manual mode.
*To get a sharp image of a moving object, use a fast shutter speed – 1/500 or even faster – to freeze the action. Alternatively, pan, that is following the subject with your camera, to blur the background and keep your main subject sharp. This takes practice, but gives great results.
*Try to anticipate how the action will unfold. Watching and learning from repeated events allows you to predict what is going to happen next, so you can be prepared. If you have an idea of what is going to happen and when it will happen you can be ready. Often movement will come to a halt and let you get your shot when your subject is at a stand still. A child on a swing for example.
*A sharp image is not always the best way of expressing movement in a photograph. A much more dramatic and evocative effect can be achieved by using a slower shutter speed and allowing a controlled amount of blur. When photographing moving water – a mountain stream or waterfall for example, using a slow shutter speed will give the effect of flowing water. If you were photographing a runner you might pan the camera and use a shutter speed fast enough to get the main subject sharp but slightly blur the background.
*Long exposures are very effective for night photography. An exposure of a few minutes can capture a firework display, lightening or even stars in the night sky. Street scenes come alive with buildings lit up and car lights streaking across the image. Remember you will need a tripod when using long exposures.
So try experimenting with different shutter speeds to see what effects they have, and practice panning to get a sense of movement in your photographs. Photographing moving subjects needs a fast shutter speed if you want to freeze the action, but a slower shutter speed if you want your main subject to flow. By panning the camera to keep the subject in the viewfinder a fast shutter speed should give a sharp image and blur the background. Anticipating when movement is at its slowest or when the subject comes to a stand still will help you get a sharp image even at a slower shutter speed. Movement can be captured by using a slower shutter speed giving an amount of blur. You should try to reach a compromise between sharpness in the main subject and a degree of blur in the background.
Away have your camera with you so you can be ready to take photographs at any time.
Saturday 15 August 2009
Using Light Effectively
Light is the fundamental substance of photography. It lies at its heart. Some people talk about photography as “painting with light”. Successful photography depends on the quality of light not just the quantity. During the course of the day the direction, color and intensity of light can change dramatically. From the low reddish sunlight of early morning and dusk, to the hard overhead mid-day sun. Following on from my previous article about exposure, let’s look at some of the effects light inevitably has on your photography. A few simple tips can be used to help deal with tricky light conditions.
* Shooting into the light can give dramatic silhouettes or impressive dark skies. This can be seen in many sun rises and sun sets. An image taken into the sun can make the subject stand out against areas of shadow giving a feeling of depth and rich tones. Modern lenses are coated to help reduce lens flare, but it is still advisable to use a lens hood or shade the lens with your hand.
*In very sunny conditions or in high contrast situations use fill-in flash to lighten the shadows. Most cameras will have a fill-in flash mode, some do this automatically. When the camera is in fill flash mode the camera exposes for the composition and adds just enough flash for the main subject. The result is a profession looking image with no dark shadows. This is something wedding photographers routinely use. Alternatively, use a reflector to bounce the light back into the shadows areas.
* For indoor shots natural light can be very effective. Have the subject close to a window where the soft directional light can be very pleasing, especially for portraits. Again, a reflector can be used to lighten any shadows. You don’t need a purpose made reflector. Any white material can be used - a sheet or white card will do.
* When photographing in strong sunlight try using the dark shadows as an integral part of the composition. They can produce interesting shapes and patterns. Long shadows early in the morning or late in the day can be used to great effect.
* Outdoor scenes can be greatly improved by attaching a polarizing filter to the lens. This will reduce glare and enrich the colors. This is especially effective for sunny outdoor scenes reducing the reflection off water and giving the sky a deeper blue. It has a similar effect to wearing Polaroid sunglasses. Polarizing filters can be rotated to minimize/maximize their effect. Outdoor landscapes and portraits can also be improved by changing the default white balance from “auto” to “cloudy”. This will give warmer tones.
* Shafts of light can look spectacular. In woodland, for example, light coming down through the trees are like natural spot lights. The sun shining through a forest canopy can give a dramatic effect. Backlit leaves give a translucent look and can enrich the greens. The sun shining through a sudden break in stormy clouds can be very dramatic.
* Always remember, even dull lighting can give surprisingly good results. So don’t put your camera away just because you are loosing the light. A long exposure can result in a great shot, giving the effect of movement. Especially street scenes. So even in tricky lighting conditions it is always worthwhile taking the photograph. In fact, take a few at different exposures.
Above all else, your photography should be fun – so always have your camera with you and enjoy!
* Shooting into the light can give dramatic silhouettes or impressive dark skies. This can be seen in many sun rises and sun sets. An image taken into the sun can make the subject stand out against areas of shadow giving a feeling of depth and rich tones. Modern lenses are coated to help reduce lens flare, but it is still advisable to use a lens hood or shade the lens with your hand.
*In very sunny conditions or in high contrast situations use fill-in flash to lighten the shadows. Most cameras will have a fill-in flash mode, some do this automatically. When the camera is in fill flash mode the camera exposes for the composition and adds just enough flash for the main subject. The result is a profession looking image with no dark shadows. This is something wedding photographers routinely use. Alternatively, use a reflector to bounce the light back into the shadows areas.
* For indoor shots natural light can be very effective. Have the subject close to a window where the soft directional light can be very pleasing, especially for portraits. Again, a reflector can be used to lighten any shadows. You don’t need a purpose made reflector. Any white material can be used - a sheet or white card will do.
* When photographing in strong sunlight try using the dark shadows as an integral part of the composition. They can produce interesting shapes and patterns. Long shadows early in the morning or late in the day can be used to great effect.
* Outdoor scenes can be greatly improved by attaching a polarizing filter to the lens. This will reduce glare and enrich the colors. This is especially effective for sunny outdoor scenes reducing the reflection off water and giving the sky a deeper blue. It has a similar effect to wearing Polaroid sunglasses. Polarizing filters can be rotated to minimize/maximize their effect. Outdoor landscapes and portraits can also be improved by changing the default white balance from “auto” to “cloudy”. This will give warmer tones.
* Shafts of light can look spectacular. In woodland, for example, light coming down through the trees are like natural spot lights. The sun shining through a forest canopy can give a dramatic effect. Backlit leaves give a translucent look and can enrich the greens. The sun shining through a sudden break in stormy clouds can be very dramatic.
* Always remember, even dull lighting can give surprisingly good results. So don’t put your camera away just because you are loosing the light. A long exposure can result in a great shot, giving the effect of movement. Especially street scenes. So even in tricky lighting conditions it is always worthwhile taking the photograph. In fact, take a few at different exposures.
Above all else, your photography should be fun – so always have your camera with you and enjoy!
Friday 7 August 2009
Getting The Right Exposure
Getting the right exposure is vital for a good photograph. No doubt your camera will have an auto-exposure function which will be good most of the time – but not always. The key is knowing how to help your camera get the best result. There are a few simple techniques you can use when lighting conditions are not ideal.
The easiest lighting condition to expose for is to have your subject lit from the front. For an outdoor scene having the sun behind you will be easy to expose for, but is likely to give a flat uninteresting texture. In sunny situations, position yourself so the sun is slightly to one side, giving your subject greater dimension. An average exposure of the highlight and shadow areas is likely to be correct.
Exposure meter readings work best on mid-tones, so get to know them – basically neutral shades. Learn to take the exposure from part of the scene in tricky lighting conditions. Use the center-weighted or spot-metering if your scene has extremes of light and shadow. Depending on the type of image you are taking, there will usually be a key tone – a face, a flower, a building, part of a landscape – which has to be right, so expose for that.
The most demanding lighting conditions make it difficult to get the right exposure. So when photographing against the light or high contrasting lighting, check the image and retake if necessary. Taking several images with different exposures isn’t going to cost you anything. It is sometimes better to under expose than over expose. Over exposure tends to wash out the image, whereas slight under exposure may actually give richer tones.
If you are shooting in poor lighting or if your subject is moving, you can reduce the exposure time by increasing the ISO setting. This increases the camera’s light sensitivity and allows you to use a faster shutter speed and still get the right exposure.
Some cameras have a bracketing facility. This lets you take, usually three, separate images at slightly different exposures. Hopefully, one of them will be right.
Have fun! Until next time.
The easiest lighting condition to expose for is to have your subject lit from the front. For an outdoor scene having the sun behind you will be easy to expose for, but is likely to give a flat uninteresting texture. In sunny situations, position yourself so the sun is slightly to one side, giving your subject greater dimension. An average exposure of the highlight and shadow areas is likely to be correct.
Exposure meter readings work best on mid-tones, so get to know them – basically neutral shades. Learn to take the exposure from part of the scene in tricky lighting conditions. Use the center-weighted or spot-metering if your scene has extremes of light and shadow. Depending on the type of image you are taking, there will usually be a key tone – a face, a flower, a building, part of a landscape – which has to be right, so expose for that.
The most demanding lighting conditions make it difficult to get the right exposure. So when photographing against the light or high contrasting lighting, check the image and retake if necessary. Taking several images with different exposures isn’t going to cost you anything. It is sometimes better to under expose than over expose. Over exposure tends to wash out the image, whereas slight under exposure may actually give richer tones.
If you are shooting in poor lighting or if your subject is moving, you can reduce the exposure time by increasing the ISO setting. This increases the camera’s light sensitivity and allows you to use a faster shutter speed and still get the right exposure.
Some cameras have a bracketing facility. This lets you take, usually three, separate images at slightly different exposures. Hopefully, one of them will be right.
Have fun! Until next time.
Friday 31 July 2009
Sharpen Your Focus
How many times has a good shot been ruined by a vital part of the image being out of focus? A lot, I would guess. We often rely too much on auto-focus letting the camera make the decisions. Let’s look at some ways to ensure that the important parts of the image are sharp by taking back control.
Nearly all cameras these days have auto-focus which virtually guarantees at least some of your image will be in focus. Which part, however, might not be the part you want to be sharp. Most auto-focus systems will use an area of the image to focus on – usually a central point. This may be fine for most general scenes, but there will be times when it leads to parts of the image loosing sharpness.
Sometimes, particularly if you have a fairly prominent foreground, your auto-focus will focus on this area and leave the main subject out of focus. Especially if you have a narrow depth of field. This can happen if the Focus Area is set to “closest”. You can choose “single” Focus Area to get around this. Auto-focus can be confused under certain conditions when the focus area contains objects at different distances, unusual contrast or a finely detailed subject. If you find the main subject going out of focus when using auto-focus, try letting the camera focus on something at a similar distance, hold the shutter part way down to hold the focus, and recompose the shot. If all else fails you can always use Manual Focus!
When it comes to focus, depth of field is very important. Depth of field is the range of focus within an image. It is governed by the aperture of the lens. The larger the aperture the narrower the depth of field. Conversely, the smaller the aperture the greater the depth of field. Confusingly, the higher the aperture number the smaller the actual aperture. So, f11 gives a smaller aperture than f4. If you are using Aperture Priority exposure you are in control of the depth of field and can alter it to suit what you want. Otherwise the camera will set the aperture depending on the shutter speed in order to get the correct exposure. It is a good idea to use the preview button to see what the depth of field will look like in the final image.
If you are in auto-focus you can choose between Single-Servo or Continuous-Servo. This is basically to handle moving objects. Generally, single-servro will ensure a sharp, focused image. Continuous-servo may be a better choice for erratically moving objects which are constantly changing distance.
If your camera has manual focusing controls, learn to use them. You will almost certainly come across situations where auto-focus lets you down, and if you know how to use manual focusing you will get more out of your photography. Manual control is almost always needed when photographing close ups, and controlling depth of field. It allows you to make precise adjustments and inevitably control where in your image the sharpness lies.
Lastly, if your camera has an electronic range finder, life is even easier. In Manual Focus mode, make sure your subject is in the focus area, half press the shutter-release, turn the focusing ring until the in-focus indicator is displayed and you are focused. No excuses! Enjoy your photography.
Nearly all cameras these days have auto-focus which virtually guarantees at least some of your image will be in focus. Which part, however, might not be the part you want to be sharp. Most auto-focus systems will use an area of the image to focus on – usually a central point. This may be fine for most general scenes, but there will be times when it leads to parts of the image loosing sharpness.
Sometimes, particularly if you have a fairly prominent foreground, your auto-focus will focus on this area and leave the main subject out of focus. Especially if you have a narrow depth of field. This can happen if the Focus Area is set to “closest”. You can choose “single” Focus Area to get around this. Auto-focus can be confused under certain conditions when the focus area contains objects at different distances, unusual contrast or a finely detailed subject. If you find the main subject going out of focus when using auto-focus, try letting the camera focus on something at a similar distance, hold the shutter part way down to hold the focus, and recompose the shot. If all else fails you can always use Manual Focus!
When it comes to focus, depth of field is very important. Depth of field is the range of focus within an image. It is governed by the aperture of the lens. The larger the aperture the narrower the depth of field. Conversely, the smaller the aperture the greater the depth of field. Confusingly, the higher the aperture number the smaller the actual aperture. So, f11 gives a smaller aperture than f4. If you are using Aperture Priority exposure you are in control of the depth of field and can alter it to suit what you want. Otherwise the camera will set the aperture depending on the shutter speed in order to get the correct exposure. It is a good idea to use the preview button to see what the depth of field will look like in the final image.
If you are in auto-focus you can choose between Single-Servo or Continuous-Servo. This is basically to handle moving objects. Generally, single-servro will ensure a sharp, focused image. Continuous-servo may be a better choice for erratically moving objects which are constantly changing distance.
If your camera has manual focusing controls, learn to use them. You will almost certainly come across situations where auto-focus lets you down, and if you know how to use manual focusing you will get more out of your photography. Manual control is almost always needed when photographing close ups, and controlling depth of field. It allows you to make precise adjustments and inevitably control where in your image the sharpness lies.
Lastly, if your camera has an electronic range finder, life is even easier. In Manual Focus mode, make sure your subject is in the focus area, half press the shutter-release, turn the focusing ring until the in-focus indicator is displayed and you are focused. No excuses! Enjoy your photography.
Monday 27 July 2009
What You Should Know About Your Camera Settings
Digital cameras come with basic settings which are great for most photographers when starting out. As you become more experienced and want to try experimenting you will probably want more from your camera. This means learning more about the different settings your camera has to offer. Here we are going to look at some of the settings you can use to great effect.
The fully automatic mode, usually a green symbol will completely take control of your camera settings, so is best used for only the most straight forward point-and-shoot pictures.
The first one to look at is the “P” or Program mode. This will give a high level of automation, but still allows for some alterations to the basic settings.
The SCENE mode, designed for situations such as landscapes, close-ups or sport, save a lot of hassle, so use them if your camera has them.
Use the highest image quality your camera has to offer. The RAW format gives the highest quality, but uses a lot of storage. JPEG loses a bit of quality, but is easier to work with on your computer. You can always reduce the size of the image, but you can’t put in quality that wasn’t there in the first place.
If you have one, the BRACKETING setting is useful to make sure you get the right exposure. This will allow you to take - usually three - slightly different exposures. Hopefully, one of them will be correct.
Use the A (Aperture) priority setting to control the depth of field. That is the band of the image which is in sharp focus. This setting allows you to set the aperture of the lens, letting the camera control the shutter speed. A low AV will give a shallow depth of field. Very useful for throwing the background out of focus for example. A high AV will allow everything from foreground to distant objects to be sharply focused.
The T (Time) or S (Shutter) priority setting allows you to set the shutter speed whilst letting the camera control the aperture. This is needed when shutter speed is important. For example, an action shot will require a very short shutter speed. For low light conditions a long exposure may be necessary.
On the subject of lighting conditions, try altering the ISO setting. This is the equivalent of the film speed in old technology! Raising the ISO number makes your camera more sensitive to light so you can use a higher shutter speed. Useful to freeze the action or avoid camera shake.
Another setting you can use is MACRO. This lets you get some really great close-up shots of objects. It used to require special lenses for these photographs and was beyond the reach of most amateurs. Now all it needs is an automatic setting on your camera.
Set the camera to SERIES or CONTINUOUS exposure and be ready to make a number of exposures in rapid succession. If the action is unfolding in front of your eyes you don’t want to miss that vital shot.
The default WHITE BALANCE on you digital camera will be auto, which is fine for most snapshots, but can sometimes give a cold feel to your photographs. When you are shooting landscapes or outdoor portraits try changing the setting to cloudy. This will give a warmer, richer tone.
Learn more about digital photography
Earn Money With Your Camera
Easy Photography Business
The fully automatic mode, usually a green symbol will completely take control of your camera settings, so is best used for only the most straight forward point-and-shoot pictures.
The first one to look at is the “P” or Program mode. This will give a high level of automation, but still allows for some alterations to the basic settings.
The SCENE mode, designed for situations such as landscapes, close-ups or sport, save a lot of hassle, so use them if your camera has them.
Use the highest image quality your camera has to offer. The RAW format gives the highest quality, but uses a lot of storage. JPEG loses a bit of quality, but is easier to work with on your computer. You can always reduce the size of the image, but you can’t put in quality that wasn’t there in the first place.
If you have one, the BRACKETING setting is useful to make sure you get the right exposure. This will allow you to take - usually three - slightly different exposures. Hopefully, one of them will be correct.
Use the A (Aperture) priority setting to control the depth of field. That is the band of the image which is in sharp focus. This setting allows you to set the aperture of the lens, letting the camera control the shutter speed. A low AV will give a shallow depth of field. Very useful for throwing the background out of focus for example. A high AV will allow everything from foreground to distant objects to be sharply focused.
The T (Time) or S (Shutter) priority setting allows you to set the shutter speed whilst letting the camera control the aperture. This is needed when shutter speed is important. For example, an action shot will require a very short shutter speed. For low light conditions a long exposure may be necessary.
On the subject of lighting conditions, try altering the ISO setting. This is the equivalent of the film speed in old technology! Raising the ISO number makes your camera more sensitive to light so you can use a higher shutter speed. Useful to freeze the action or avoid camera shake.
Another setting you can use is MACRO. This lets you get some really great close-up shots of objects. It used to require special lenses for these photographs and was beyond the reach of most amateurs. Now all it needs is an automatic setting on your camera.
Set the camera to SERIES or CONTINUOUS exposure and be ready to make a number of exposures in rapid succession. If the action is unfolding in front of your eyes you don’t want to miss that vital shot.
The default WHITE BALANCE on you digital camera will be auto, which is fine for most snapshots, but can sometimes give a cold feel to your photographs. When you are shooting landscapes or outdoor portraits try changing the setting to cloudy. This will give a warmer, richer tone.
Learn more about digital photography
Earn Money With Your Camera
Easy Photography Business
Friday 17 July 2009
Tips For Creating Better Pictures
Often it is the simple things which make the difference. So here are a few easy steps to take which will help you to take better pictures.
Before you press the shutter check the viewfinder. Sounds obvious I know, but you would be surprised at the number of times you can look at a photography you have taken and think, “Oh, I didn’t notice that in the background”. Check that everything you want is in the shot, and just as important, nothing is in there that you don’t want. Look around the edges to make sure nothing unwanted is intruding. Check that you are not chopping off anything that you want to be in there. Check that the horizon is level and that verticals are vertical. You don’t want anything leaning which isn’t meant to!
Try to be imaginative with angles. Different angles can be more interesting than those straight on shots. Get up higher or lower. Stand on a chair, kneel or even lie down. Get that unusual angle to make your shot different.
If you are photographing a person it is often good to get in close. These can be more intimate and interesting. It can also cut out unwanted background clutter and distractions. Beware the dreaded tree growing out of someone’s head!
Use doorways or overhanging branches as natural framing devices. These help to emphasize your subject and give a more pleasing composition.
When photographing a scenic view try to place something in the foreground to give a sense of scale and depth.
• Search the viewfinder
• Hold the camera level
• Fill the frame
• Use framing devices and foreground.
Learn more about digital photography
Earn Money With Your Camera
Easy Photography Business
Before you press the shutter check the viewfinder. Sounds obvious I know, but you would be surprised at the number of times you can look at a photography you have taken and think, “Oh, I didn’t notice that in the background”. Check that everything you want is in the shot, and just as important, nothing is in there that you don’t want. Look around the edges to make sure nothing unwanted is intruding. Check that you are not chopping off anything that you want to be in there. Check that the horizon is level and that verticals are vertical. You don’t want anything leaning which isn’t meant to!
Try to be imaginative with angles. Different angles can be more interesting than those straight on shots. Get up higher or lower. Stand on a chair, kneel or even lie down. Get that unusual angle to make your shot different.
If you are photographing a person it is often good to get in close. These can be more intimate and interesting. It can also cut out unwanted background clutter and distractions. Beware the dreaded tree growing out of someone’s head!
Use doorways or overhanging branches as natural framing devices. These help to emphasize your subject and give a more pleasing composition.
When photographing a scenic view try to place something in the foreground to give a sense of scale and depth.
• Search the viewfinder
• Hold the camera level
• Fill the frame
• Use framing devices and foreground.
Learn more about digital photography
Earn Money With Your Camera
Easy Photography Business
Thursday 9 July 2009
Which Digital Camera Do I Choose
Most of today’s digital cameras are capable of producing great quality results. Even the less expensive seem to offer a wide range of controls.
Cameras largely fall into three groups. The simple point-and-shoot compact is probably best for a beginner. Next is the more expensive SLR (Single Lens Reflex) which will have a greater resolution and usually a zoom lens. The top of the range professional cameras will offer even more resolution, more flexible camera and image controls and better quality lenses.
Cameras with optical see through viewfinders provide a small but adequate view. Many, even the less expensive cameras, have a liquid crystal display (LCD). The larger screen is easier to use and often flips out which is useful for awkward angles.
The more expensive the camera, the more pixels it will generally have. So what is a pixel and how many do I need? A pixel is a picture’s element. The more you have the greater the resolution – the capability for recording greater detail. The image sensor is made up of individual pixels, so an 8 megapixel sensor will have 8 million pixels or picture elements.
For normal size prints and for web use 3-5 megapixels are ample, but for more professional use 8 or more megagpixels are needed. Remember that the number of pixels doesn’t guarantee good image quality – a lot depends on the quality of the lens. That’s why the more expensive cameras have more pixels and high quality lenses. As with many things, the final quality is only as good as the weakest component.
Digital cameras store images on memory cards. The cards supplied with the camera are usually inadequate – good for only a handful of images. You will need to buy a card with a reasonable amount of memory. Often the manufacturer will give an indication of the number of images a card will hold.
It’s important that your camera feels right. Be comfortable with it. Don’t go overboard when buying your first camera. If all you need is a point-and-shoot compact for the occasional holiday snap, don’t spend a fortune. On the other hand if you are going to get serious, then think about how your camera system will grow with attachments like flash, tripod and filters etc. And don’t forget – have fun!
Learn more about digital photography.
Earn money with your camera.
Easy Photography Business
.
Cameras largely fall into three groups. The simple point-and-shoot compact is probably best for a beginner. Next is the more expensive SLR (Single Lens Reflex) which will have a greater resolution and usually a zoom lens. The top of the range professional cameras will offer even more resolution, more flexible camera and image controls and better quality lenses.
Cameras with optical see through viewfinders provide a small but adequate view. Many, even the less expensive cameras, have a liquid crystal display (LCD). The larger screen is easier to use and often flips out which is useful for awkward angles.
The more expensive the camera, the more pixels it will generally have. So what is a pixel and how many do I need? A pixel is a picture’s element. The more you have the greater the resolution – the capability for recording greater detail. The image sensor is made up of individual pixels, so an 8 megapixel sensor will have 8 million pixels or picture elements.
For normal size prints and for web use 3-5 megapixels are ample, but for more professional use 8 or more megagpixels are needed. Remember that the number of pixels doesn’t guarantee good image quality – a lot depends on the quality of the lens. That’s why the more expensive cameras have more pixels and high quality lenses. As with many things, the final quality is only as good as the weakest component.
Digital cameras store images on memory cards. The cards supplied with the camera are usually inadequate – good for only a handful of images. You will need to buy a card with a reasonable amount of memory. Often the manufacturer will give an indication of the number of images a card will hold.
It’s important that your camera feels right. Be comfortable with it. Don’t go overboard when buying your first camera. If all you need is a point-and-shoot compact for the occasional holiday snap, don’t spend a fortune. On the other hand if you are going to get serious, then think about how your camera system will grow with attachments like flash, tripod and filters etc. And don’t forget – have fun!
Learn more about digital photography.
Earn money with your camera.
Easy Photography Business
.
Tuesday 7 July 2009
Getting Started As A Digital Photographer
The age of digital photography is definitely here. It is simply the easiest and the best way to take photos these days. Gone are the worries about having enough film and the cost of processing. The number of photos you take is limited only by the size of your memory card. As every shot you take costs virtually nothing you can take as many as you want and simply delete the ones you don’t like. Instant feedback is one of digital photography’s greatest advantages.
If you learnt your photographic skills with a film camera – don’t worry – all those sound principles still apply. Although focus and exposure can be handled automatically, you can still use your creative skills and don’t forget the all important composition.
We will be looking at things like how to choose a camera, understanding it’s settings, as well as techniques and how to take that great picture.
Learn more about digital photography.
Earn Money With Your Camera.
Easy Photography Business
If you learnt your photographic skills with a film camera – don’t worry – all those sound principles still apply. Although focus and exposure can be handled automatically, you can still use your creative skills and don’t forget the all important composition.
We will be looking at things like how to choose a camera, understanding it’s settings, as well as techniques and how to take that great picture.
Learn more about digital photography.
Earn Money With Your Camera.
Easy Photography Business
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